#01 Paeonia Blouse
Fabric: Woven light weight blouse fabric with a good drape. If possible, a bit of stretch will do you good.
You will also need: Matching thread, iron-on bias tape (for securing neckline), light woven interlining for facing and you might need a zipper for the back, if you make your blouse very tight.
Required sewing techniques: Darts, ease, hemming, zipper (if needed) overlocking edges and straight stitching.
We guide you through: Folding and sewing the pleats, sewing both sleeve versions and the facing.
Combinations: Pleated front, plain front, tulip sleeves, 3/4 shaped sleeves.
Size 32-48 included in the pattern.
About this pattern
When designing the Paeonia Blouse, we wanted to create a blouse with a pleated front for woven fabrics. This is not an easy task, especially when you consider the need, for it to be fitted to different body types as well as be graded into multiple sizes.
Our design choices will make the fitting and sewing of your Paeonia Blouse a lot easier-as well as achieving a beautiful result every time.
A side panel has been added, to avoid the pleats continuing to a side seam. This provides you with 2 seams for fitting, instead of just the one side seam. The side seam has been built into the side panel
A back dart has been included, to give you the option of a more fitted style. This dart can be shaped to fit your body and please, do not hesitate to change the position and size of the dart as required for your body type and the fit you want to achieve.
The seams of the side panel, both continue to the armhole, allowing you more options for increasing or reducing the size of the armhole, again increasing the ease of getting the perfect fit for you.
The center back is straight and cut on the fold. However, in the case of a sway back, you may decide to create a seam at center back for additional shaping. You can also use this seam to shape the back, if you just prefer a more fitted style. Note, that if you choose to make the Paeonia Blouse more fitted, you may also need a center back zip. It is always a good idea to make a test garment. The test garment is great for perfecting the fit and to check if there is a need for a center back zip.
The ¾ shaped sleeves are inspired by the Danish couturier Holger Blom (1905-1965). Draping his dresses on the client, he only added seams as he found it necessary. After viewing an exhibition, we were inspired to add shape to the sleeve seam at front. Not knowing if this was in fact a design feature of the original sleeve, we tested the construction and were very pleased with the shaping at the elbow, providing additional room for movement.
The tulip sleeve is very curved and does not overlap too far. This is flattering on almost every arm as well as adding interest. Be mindful, that if you have broad shoulders, the tulip sleeve will possibly make your shoulders appear broader. On narrower shoulders however, the tulip sleeve will add balance to the upper body.
A plain front was the basis of the design for the pleated front. We have included the plain front as well, so you have the choice of making the Paeonia Blouse without pleats. Perfect for those occasions where a classic blouse is just what you need.
We are very excited about the Paeonia Blouse and hope, you will love yours as well. If you would like to show us your creations (and we hope you will), please use #paeoniablouse #eliqusewing.